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My Camera Settings
I have a few settings that I thought I would share which are different than what the camera is natively set to use. First is "my Mode" I always want a dummy mode for my camera — One which I can put the camera in automatic and hand to anyone. The camera is set to Auto ISO (Up to ISO 1600), P mode, S-AF, IS-1 on, High shutter rate, and center focus point selected. I figure with these settings I can get a useful shot 90% of the time, without knowing a thing about the camera. They should get at least 1 shot in focus. The camera may scare them when it rattles out 5 shots in a second, but they should get something. You can have two "My Mode" settings on your camera. To add a "My Mode", choose the settings you desire by first selecting these settings in the camera. Next, you go under menu / custom settings 1 (the wrench with a 1 next to it) / B Button-Dial / My Mode Setup — and tell it to save the current settings. Really, we all need this mode occasionally.
So after you have set a "My Mode", lets talk about a couple other important settings in the first menu group. First I shoot RAW, partially because I like to play on the computer, and also because I like to play on the computer. Where as I was a strong supporter for the E-410 and E-510 to shoot in Jpeg mode, I really think that if you are going to shoot a professional SLR you should want to shoot raw. You can always develop the raw files in Studio, so you may want to set up in camera some presets that Studio will use, but I don't usually use Studio in my workflow. So the settings such as picture mode, and gradation I have no opinion on.
 
I usually shoot WB-Auto because 95% of the time it is correct. However, if I am shooting in a studio setup, I will change it for my lights. ISO is usually either at ISO 100 or 200 depending upon what I am shooting, if it is overcast ISO 400. If I have a long lens, then I usually shoot at least ISO 200 but usually Auto ISO. My noise filter is set to low. I would rather have a slightly noisy picture than a plastic looking one. (More focusing setup is on this page).
In the second menu settings group, I have my metering set to ESP, or matrix as some would know it. It really does a good job on the E-3 for giving me constant exposures. I find that with it tied to the AF point is very similar to metering I would expect from Center Weight metering, off that point of focus. If you have a wireless capable flash the FL-50R or FL-36R you can turn on the controller (the built in flash with RCMODE on). The wireless flash abilities of the E-3 are exceptional in my opinion. I also use only 1 AF point; I like to know exactly where I am focusing. I have also been playing with the diamond focusing a little bit and am beginning to like that mode too, when shooting wildlife. If you are shooting on a tripod a lot (you may want a "my mode" for tripod shooting with anti-shock on, and IS off, and have the camera set to Aperture priority) you will most likely want anti-shock on. But note that with the smaller mirror on the E-3, I seem to get a lot fewer vibrations that I use to in my 35mm days. Also, you have 4 different bracketing options, which I will cover elsewhere.
Under the playback menu option, the only setting you may want to consider changing is the auto rotate button. However, I leave mine on, because it shows the largest possible view of the picture on the back of the camera.
Custom menu option 1 menu - Here is where things get a bit confusing. There are many settings so I will refer to these as CM1 for custom menu 1 and then throw in the letters A-I to describe the sub menu you will enter.
 
CM1A-AF/MF - I Use AF sensitivity on Normal because I have a theory, that when the "Small" points are selected it does not use the second set of AF points which are 1/2 step offset, and AF can be confused easier. I have not noticed any pictures out of focus, but I did have a few with "small" selected which were out of focus. Secondly, within this menu I have the focus button setup to spiral [...] basically as I select the focus points using the control wheels it scrolls through the whole set of 11 points, verses loop which just continues on the 1 plane of focus. I don't use bulb focusing much, and have that one off (again it might be useful in a "my mode 2" for landscape tripod shooting).
  
CM1B - The Dial I have setup in P/A/M to be that the front dial controls either the shutter or the Aperture, but that the rear dial controls +/- exposure, so that when I need to quickly over expose or under expose I can quickly do it. I have gone back and forth on the AEL/AFL memo button to remain on or off after I lift my finger from the shutter button, but at this point it is set to off. Mostly because I am afraid that I will leave it on, and really mess up my exposures down the road. However, I have changed the FN function of my camera to switch to Manual Focus. So I can quickly switch focusing modes when I need to change something in a rush.
CM1D - I have the camera set to have a beep on, but if I am in a quiet room, it is really annoying, and would highly recommend shutting it off. I have set up my sleep to either not function, or at 5 minutes. The advantage is the camera is always ready to go, but the disadvantage is I go through a lot of batteries when I shoot. Many times when using live view I have the camera setup in a studio type of situation, so I have live view boost set for on. If it is off, I do not truly see how the flashes will fire, and the subject is usually very dark with the live view on, so having boost on helps me to see what I am doing. So keep live view boost off if you want to see a similar image to what your file will look like. If you are shooting in a studio setup then turn it on.
CM1E - I have my camera for simplicity set to 1/2 EV steps. I know that many use 1/3, but I find that 1/2 gives me a simpler camera layout, which I am very pleased with most of the time. Because ISO does not give me 1/2 options, I do use 1/3 steps about 1/2 of the time, but only if I plan on shooting at above ISO 800. If I shoot below that I just use whole step ISO buttons. My slow flash limit is set on the camera for 1/80 of a second. However, the majority of the time I shoot with a flash in Manual mode, so I have total control of ambient light, and depth of field. If I do not shoot in manual mode, I do shoot in Aperture priority. Also the X-sync flash speed can be set as fast as 1/180th of a second, with 1/2 stops over 1/160th of a second with 1/3 stops.
Other than the setting listed above I do not alter any other settings on the camera. If I were to shoot jpeg's or use Studio as my primary raw developer, though, I would most likely have a few other settings, which I would change.
My settings above are only guidelines, but I feel that they should give a good starting place for you to begin.
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